When I was young, Overton Square was the happening place in Memphis. The Christmas Parade was held down Madison through the area, and people flocked to places like Bombay Bicycle Club, TGI Friday's, Paulettes, Silky Sullivan's or the Public Eye. The years have not been kind to Overton Square, but nobody's quite sure why. Given the fact that most Midtown addresses are easy to lease (even if a little expensive), I've always felt that management must be less than stellar, rents probably a little exorbitant, maintenance delayed at best, so I was not surprised that the new developers that have been brought in want to tear down the entire area and start over. Since the whole point of their contention is that Memphis is an impoverished and blighted city, their idea is to tear down Overton Square and build a typical shopping center anchored by a low-price supermarket. It's hard to imagine a greater insult to the people of Midtown, or the whole city for that matter.
Of course, Memphis has not treated its entertainment districts very well. The original one, Beale Street of song and legend was acquired by the Memphis Housing Authority as an urban renewal project. Perhaps fortunately, it was eventually reconceived as a tourist attraction, but not before the garish, out-of-place MLGW headquarters was built in the block where Ruben Cherry's legendary Home of the Blues record store once stood, and the equally-awful R. Q. Vinson Towers elderly high-rise was erected at the other end of the street. And the rest of the street was cut off from Black Memphis by massive demolition to the south, then turned into a Disneyfied parody of itself that ironically has not always been so welcoming to Black Memphians, particularly the youth. In the early 1960's, a new entertainment district of hip jazz and folk clubs developed in the area of Walnut and East Streets and Westmoreland Avenue. Known as Car Barn Corners, the cognoscenti frequented The Sharecropper to hear Tommy Ferguson's progressive jazz, or the Hourglass nearby to enjoy a folk hootenanny. But the streets of this district no longer even meet, the whole area having been reconfigured by the construction of Shelby State Community College (now Southwest Tennessee Community College). Besides entertainment districts, developers have torn down the Convent of the Good Shepherd (for a supermarket), Owen College (for Vance Avenue Junior High), Siena College (for the Oak Court Mall), the Hill Mansion (for a fast food restaurant that I recall didn't stay open a year), the old South Side High School, Anderton's Restaurant, the Pig N Whistle, the Frostop Rootbeer on Getwell with its distinctive rooftop mug, Libertyland, Rainbow Lake, Clearpool, the original Leonard's Bar-B-Que on Bellevue, Tim McCarver Stadium, the Cumberland Presbyterian Church headquarters (for a Chick-Fil-A), Stax Records, Lakeland Amusement Park and Speedway, American Sound Studios (where Elvis once recorded, to build a Chief's Auto Parts which closed within a year), the bandbox at Riverside Park, Guthrie School, Isaac Hayes' Hot Buttered Soul studios, Messick High School, and I could go on for days. Enough is enough. The rootlessness engendered by rampant demolition contributed to suburban flight, higher crime, and even bitterness, anger and depression. There's hardly any of old Memphis left to see. We need to organize now against Sooner Development and others who are behind the plan for "redevelopment" of Overton Square, by which they mean demolition and the construction of a typical shopping center with parking lots in front, and a couple of restaurants at the streetside as a "concession to the neighborhood." Let's debunk the myths of Overton Square so that we can make a better decision about its future. MYTH #1-"Overton Square is vacant because of crime and a deterioration in Memphis economic situation" FACT-The nearby Cooper-Young area of Midtown is booming, and another nearby redevelopment area, the Broad Street Corridor in Binghampton is becoming an art haven. Nobody can recall the last serious crime in Overton Square. MYTH #2-"Business owners would have stayed in the area if they had been making money." FACT-Two of the businesses that recently left, Le Chardonnay and Bayou Bar and Grill were forced out, either by high rent, or simply a flat denial of a lease renewal. They moved directly across the street. The landowner seems to have decided to force the buildings to become vacant, then use their vacancy to justify demolition and replacement with something else. MYTH #3-"Nothing has ever been able to work in Overton Square." FACT-Many businesses have had successful runs in the area. Bosco's, Paulette's, the Bayou Bar and Grill, Le Chardonnay and Memphis Pizza Cafe are all examples of successful businesses in Overton Square, and there were many others prior to the opening of Beale Street. However, the biggest factor in the Square's recent decline has been problems with building owners and managers, including bankruptcies and, more recently, outrageously high rents. MYTH #4-"The Overton Square buildings are not historic." FACT-While the buidlings in Overton Square are not as old as historic buildings in other parts of the city, they are old, attractive and have historic value. The iconic Memphis rock band Big Star frequented the TGI Friday's and had one of their publicity photos taken there. 2166 Madison, at the corner of Madison and Cooper, was the site of the Bitter Lemon Coffeehouse, a legendary hang-out for young beatniks who helped rediscover Furry Lewis, Nathan Beauregard, Joe Callicott and others. MYTH #5-"Midtown needs another supermarket" FACT-Within Midtown proper are a Schnuck's and a Piggly Wiggly. Not far away are three Krogers (Summer, Poplar and Lamar). And even if Midtown could use another supermarket, it doesn't need a low-price discount chain store, more likely a food co-op, or a Fresh Market. And Overton Square doesn't have to be the site of it. It could easily be put further west on Madison where the South Central Bell building once stood. MYTH #6-"Memphis can't support more than one entertainment district." FACT-Memphis already supports two and a half entertainment districts-Beale Street, Cooper Young and the growing arts community on Broad Street in Binghampton. In Saint Louis, there are entertainment neighborhoods everywhere-Laclede's Landing, University City Loop, the West End, Lockwood Avenue in Webster Groves, Soulard Market,etc. The key is that each of these areas has a unique character. They don't all try to be the same thing. MYTH #7-"If we don't let the developers move forward, nothing will ever be done with the property and it will just sit there continuing to rot." FACT-This is the view the landowner and developers want you to embrace. But the facts are, the attractive sturdy buildings could easily be part of a real redevelopment effort. The only needs are for the buildings to come under the control of people who have the vision for reclaiming the district-perhaps an Overton Square Community Development Corporation. Then, once the buildings have been restored, they can be rented to appropriate businesses-at reasonable rents that allow the entrepreneurs to succeed. If you live in Memphis, talk to your city council member about blocking demolition and requiring that any reuse of the property reserve the existing buildings. Otherwise, it will just be another piece of Memphis history that we'll have to imagine in our minds.
Friday, December 11, 2009
Take a Peek at Hip Hop Fashion in Memphis
When J2 on Highland closed some years ago, Memphis was effectively left without a hip-hop clothing emporium, so true headz should be thrilled to discover Sneak Peek, a hip, funky urban fashion boutique in Memphis' trendy South Main Arts District. Experimental and fashion conscious, this is not the place to find familiar commercial brands like Ecko or Akademics, which show up routinely at your average department store. The brands at Sneak Peek are less familiar, more creative, and, yes, rather expensive, but there are sales and discounts from time to time. Also, the store has a welcoming, cozy feel and of course great hip-hop music to provide the soundtrack for your shopping. Pay them a visit at 515 S Main in Memphis, just around the corner from the Civil Rights Museum.
Don Nix: A Memphis Music Legend's Photographs
Most people probably know Don Nix as an important Memphis musician and producer, if they know him at all. But last week's opening at the Robinson Gallery on Huling Avenue revealed that Don Nix, the former Mar-Key and disciple of Furry Lewis and Mississippi Fred McDowell, is also a very talented photographer. His black-and-white images capture the early historic days of Stax, and reduce legends like Rufus Thomas and Booker T. & the MGs to ordinary human size in everyday settings. Cold weather didn't hold down the attendance, there was wine and cheese, and a rocking blues band on stage playing Nix compositions.
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Lot-A-Burger: Memphis Locations of A Forgotten Chain
When I was younger, Memphis used to have Whataburger locations, one in Frayser and one in Whitehaven (both have since closed). But even before that, there was (and still is) Lot-A-Burger, a couple of walk-up burger stands, one on South Third and one on North Thomas near that historic corner where Elvis recorded at American Sound, and Bobby Foster and Bowlegs Miller recorded at Select-o-Sound on Chelsea. Perhaps they even ate a Lot-A-Burger! But it wasn't until I began doing research toward my history of Memphis during the mayoral term of William B. Ingram (1963-1967) that I discovered advertisements for Lot-A-Burger in Memphis, bearing the slogan "A Square Meal On A Round Bun." That led me to other interesting information online, namely that the Memphis Lot-A-Burgers were, at least at one time, franchises of a Tulsa, Oklahoma based Lot-A-Burger chain which began in 1951, long before McDonalds, or rock-and-roll for that matter. The Oklahoma locations still exist, and anyone interested can read about the chain at http://lotaburgernow.com. The Memphis locations that are still open do not appear on the company's location list, suggesting that somewhere back in the day they went their separate way. But this afternoon, I tried a Lot-A-Burger at the South Third location in Memphis. The Lot-A-Burger was an old-fashioned, thin, greasy good burger with cheese in a no-frills setting. You walk up and order, then eat it on the wooden benches out front or take it home. Not outstanding, but good and comforting, and an edible piece of Memphis history.
Coffee Returns To East Memphis
Memphians will be glad to discover that the former High Point Coffee on Poplar Avenue at Perkins Extended has reopened under new ownership and management. The new coffee bar is called Poplar Perk'n, and features a full menu of espresso drinks as well as cheesecakes and cookies. It's definitely worth a visit.
Saturday, November 21, 2009
An Open Letter to Governor Haley Barbour of Mississippi
Dear Governor Barbour,
It was with profound regret that I read in the Commercial Appeal about your budget proposal that would result in the closing of three colleges, two of them historically African-American. I cannot say that I was surprised, but I was deeply saddened. You have stated that the state of Mississippi faces a formidable budget crisis. I am sure that all states do during this sad time in our nation's history. But a state with such a history of educational deprivation as Mississippi can hardly afford to find economy through the closing of school doors and the shutting off of opportunity. You have said that it is unfair to expect the taxpayers of Mississippi to support eight institutions of higher education. I would tend to agree, but the reason that so many institutions had to be established was also unfair. In case you have forgotten how we reached this point, let me review. The Reconstruction-era legislature of Mississippi voted not to admit Blacks to the University of Mississippi, and soon thereafter, Alcorn College (one of the schools you have proposed closing) was founded on the site of an old Presbyterian college. This decision guaranteed that separate education would be required for Black students. A number of Black institutions were founded at this time by Northern churches, but by the time of World War I, these were falling out of favor with white Southerners, who did not want Blacks to receive an academic curriculum, but rather one based in agriculture and vocational work, as suggested by Booker T. Washington at Tuskegee. From that point on, Southern states worked to bring the bulk of Black education under the control of state government. The Baptist-supported Jackson College was purchased by the state in 1940, and Mississippi Vocational College (now Mississippi Valley, another school marked for closing) was founded in 1950. State control over Black higher education wreaked havoc with struggling Black church schools-all but a few could not survive economically, so Natchez College, Prentiss Institute, Saints Junior College, Southern Christian Institute, Campbell College, Baptist Industrial College, Okolona Industrial College and Mississippi Industrial College all closed between the 1940's and today. Therefore, bad decisions of the past led to Blacks being required to be in separate colleges from whites, and that those colleges would not be private and church-related, but rather publicly funded. Now we have reached the point at which the majority of Black students no longer wish to abandon their institutions and attend historically-white colleges. Years of segregation and discrimination have convinced them that there is no point in continuing the folly of trying to make integration work with people who have no desire to see it work. As for my mother's alma mater, Mississippi State College for Women (Reneau University), which you have also proposed closing, it was founded for similar reasons as those above. The state's new land-grant college, Mississippi A & M, was founded in 1878 for men only. This unusual decision necessitated a nearby school for women be founded. While men and women should have been admitted to Mississippi A & M (now Mississippi State) from the beginning, they were not, and now women are proud of the fine legacy of their school and do not want to merge with Mississippi State.
If the concern is strictly one of budget, it is strange that you made no mention of, or decision regarding, the unusually-large number of junior colleges in the state of Mississippi. They undoubtedly cost the state a great deal of money, are often located close to each other, and are also often close to the four-year schools. Wouldn't it make sense to bring them under the control of the various four-year colleges to cut down on administrative costs? This would probably save far more money than what you are proposing.
And finally, even if consolidating some colleges were a sensible answer, I would have to take issue with the schools that are being consolidated. If we were going to merge Mississippi Valley State with another institution, why would we merge it with Jackson State, more than a hundred miles to the south, when it could be so easily merged with Delta State, no more than 50 miles away in Cleveland. Such a University of the Delta could be an economic boon to the area. But could it be that you, Governor Barbour, still would rather see Blacks go to school with Blacks and whites with whites?
I know that the decisions that you and the legislature have to make will be hard ones, but I have reviewed how we got to this point. For better or for worse, decisions were made to separate the races and genders in Mississippi higher education, and people have gotten used to that setup. It is unfair to force the victims of those bad decisions of the past to now be victimized again, with the loss of their schools, traditions and heritage.
Yours Truly,
John M. Shaw
It was with profound regret that I read in the Commercial Appeal about your budget proposal that would result in the closing of three colleges, two of them historically African-American. I cannot say that I was surprised, but I was deeply saddened. You have stated that the state of Mississippi faces a formidable budget crisis. I am sure that all states do during this sad time in our nation's history. But a state with such a history of educational deprivation as Mississippi can hardly afford to find economy through the closing of school doors and the shutting off of opportunity. You have said that it is unfair to expect the taxpayers of Mississippi to support eight institutions of higher education. I would tend to agree, but the reason that so many institutions had to be established was also unfair. In case you have forgotten how we reached this point, let me review. The Reconstruction-era legislature of Mississippi voted not to admit Blacks to the University of Mississippi, and soon thereafter, Alcorn College (one of the schools you have proposed closing) was founded on the site of an old Presbyterian college. This decision guaranteed that separate education would be required for Black students. A number of Black institutions were founded at this time by Northern churches, but by the time of World War I, these were falling out of favor with white Southerners, who did not want Blacks to receive an academic curriculum, but rather one based in agriculture and vocational work, as suggested by Booker T. Washington at Tuskegee. From that point on, Southern states worked to bring the bulk of Black education under the control of state government. The Baptist-supported Jackson College was purchased by the state in 1940, and Mississippi Vocational College (now Mississippi Valley, another school marked for closing) was founded in 1950. State control over Black higher education wreaked havoc with struggling Black church schools-all but a few could not survive economically, so Natchez College, Prentiss Institute, Saints Junior College, Southern Christian Institute, Campbell College, Baptist Industrial College, Okolona Industrial College and Mississippi Industrial College all closed between the 1940's and today. Therefore, bad decisions of the past led to Blacks being required to be in separate colleges from whites, and that those colleges would not be private and church-related, but rather publicly funded. Now we have reached the point at which the majority of Black students no longer wish to abandon their institutions and attend historically-white colleges. Years of segregation and discrimination have convinced them that there is no point in continuing the folly of trying to make integration work with people who have no desire to see it work. As for my mother's alma mater, Mississippi State College for Women (Reneau University), which you have also proposed closing, it was founded for similar reasons as those above. The state's new land-grant college, Mississippi A & M, was founded in 1878 for men only. This unusual decision necessitated a nearby school for women be founded. While men and women should have been admitted to Mississippi A & M (now Mississippi State) from the beginning, they were not, and now women are proud of the fine legacy of their school and do not want to merge with Mississippi State.
If the concern is strictly one of budget, it is strange that you made no mention of, or decision regarding, the unusually-large number of junior colleges in the state of Mississippi. They undoubtedly cost the state a great deal of money, are often located close to each other, and are also often close to the four-year schools. Wouldn't it make sense to bring them under the control of the various four-year colleges to cut down on administrative costs? This would probably save far more money than what you are proposing.
And finally, even if consolidating some colleges were a sensible answer, I would have to take issue with the schools that are being consolidated. If we were going to merge Mississippi Valley State with another institution, why would we merge it with Jackson State, more than a hundred miles to the south, when it could be so easily merged with Delta State, no more than 50 miles away in Cleveland. Such a University of the Delta could be an economic boon to the area. But could it be that you, Governor Barbour, still would rather see Blacks go to school with Blacks and whites with whites?
I know that the decisions that you and the legislature have to make will be hard ones, but I have reviewed how we got to this point. For better or for worse, decisions were made to separate the races and genders in Mississippi higher education, and people have gotten used to that setup. It is unfair to force the victims of those bad decisions of the past to now be victimized again, with the loss of their schools, traditions and heritage.
Yours Truly,
John M. Shaw
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
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